‘Childhood dream’: Seine reopens to Paris swimmers after century-long ban

TAKING A PLUNGE. A swimmer dives in the water at the Grenelle safe bathing site on the Seine River, in front of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, on its opening day this Saturday, July 5. (Photo courtesy: Julien de Rosa/AFP)

By Agence France-Presse

The River Seine reopened to swimmers in Paris on Saturday morning, July 5, marking the first time since 1923 that bathers could take a dip in the iconic waterway following a years-long cleanup effort.

A 95-year-old Parisian was among the first to take the plunge at a newly opened swim zone in the city’s east—one of three sites in the French capital where visitors can officially hop in the Seine for the first time in more than a century.

“I’m so happy! I’ve dreamed of swimming in the Seine for years,” said Ingrid, who declined to give her last name, as she stepped carefully into the warm water wearing a turquoise-blue swimsuit.

Chantal Eyboulet, wearing a fluorescent pink swimming cap, shared in the excitement. “I’ve been waiting 30 years for this,” said the 61-year-old engineer from Paris after completing a lap.

The seasonal opening of the Seine for swimming is seen as a key legacy of the Paris 2024 Olympics, when open-water swimmers and triathletes competed in its waters which were specially cleaned for the event.

Earlier on Saturday, Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo looked on as people of all ages arrived for the 8:00 a.m. (0600 GMT) opening of the Bras Marie swimming zone, snapping on swim caps and goggles as they prepared to dive in and celebrate the long-awaited return of bathing in the Seine.

“It’s a childhood dream to have people swimming in the Seine,” said Hidalgo at the swim zone in the city’s historic center near Ile Saint-Louis.

“Look at how happy everyone is,” she said with a smile.

The swimming zones are equipped with changing rooms, showers, and beach-style furniture, offering space for 150 to 300 people to relax, lay out their towels, and unwind from the city’s hustle and bustle.

For those still unsure about diving in, Paris officials say they have taken several measures to ensure swimmers can safely enjoy the long-anticipated reopening, including daily water pollution testing.

“The water quality is ‘exceptional,’” said Marc Guillaume, the prefect for the Ile-de France region that includes Paris.

But officials reminded swimmers of potential dangers, including strong currents, boat traffic, and an average depth of 3.5 meters (11 feet).

To mitigate that risk, lifeguards will assess visitors’ swimming abilities before allowing independent access, while a decree issued in late June introduced fines for anyone swimming outside designated areas.

Weather permitting, Parisians and locals can swim under the watchful eye of lifeguards at the three bathing sites, including one a stone’s throw from the Eiffel Tower until the end of August.

BEATING THE HEAT. People swim at the Pont Marie safe bathing site on the Seine River on its opening day, in Paris on Saturday, July 5. The River Seine reopened to Parisian swimmers for the first time since 1923, offering locals and tourists a welcome respite after scorching temperatures. (Photo courtesy: Julien de Rosa/AFP)

‘Like a mermaid’

The opening comes after the French capital endured a major heatwave during the week, which saw Paris put on the weather agency’s highest alert level during a Europe-wide heatwave.

Hidalgo, who took the inaugural swim last year, said that cleaning up the Seine for the Olympics was not the final goal but part of a broader effort to adapt the city to climate change and enhance quality of life.

“Heatwaves are only going to increase”, the Paris mayor said, adding creating safe swim spaces will foster a “happier, and undoubtedly more peaceful life with our fellow citizens”.

One of the swimmers said she was thrilled about the Seine’s re-opening.

“I feel like a mermaid,” said Isabel Bertelot, 65, who lives on the other side of the river from the Bercy site.

“I’ve dreamed so many times of swimming across the Seine, whether it was allowed or not. So now it’s great, I don’t even have to cheat!” she added before diving in.

UNDER CLOSE WATCH. A lifeguard stands on duty as people swim at the Pont Marie safe bathing site on the Seine River on its opening day, in Paris on Saturday, July 5. (Photo courtesy: Julien de Rosa/AFP)

‘Collective effort’

The promise to lift the swimming ban dates back to 1988, when then-mayor of Paris and future president Jacques Chirac first advocated for its reversal, around 65 years after the practice was banned in 1923.

“One of my predecessors (Chirac), then mayor of Paris, dreamed of a Seine where everyone could swim,” President Emmanuel Macron wrote on X, describing the move as the result of a “collective effort” and a moment of “pride” for France.

Ahead of the Olympic Games, authorities invested approximately EUR 1.4 billion (USD1.6 billion) to improve the Seine’s water quality. Since then, work carried out upstream promises even better water quality—with one catch.

On rainy days, the mid-19th-century Parisian sewage system often overflows, causing rain and waste waters to pour into the river.

Flags will inform bathers about pollution levels in the water every day, and if it rains, the sites will likely close the day after, said Paris city official Pierre Rabadan.

Swimmers may be in luck this year, though, with weather predicted to be drier than the record rainfall during the Games, which led to the cancellation of six of the 11 competitions held on the river.

The swimming spots are open to the public for free until August 31.

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